ianmcmill
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Loading an SVG/DXF into the Makelangelo software always centers the content of the SVG. Alignments are irgnored.
This is a problem when drawing with multiple colors. However, there is a “switch color to…” function in the firmware for the internal CYMK art style. It’s just not useable for anything else then the CYMK style.I have two layers in Inkscape for different colors. When saving each layer into a separate file and loading them successively into the software, they get centered automatically destroying the different alignments I had in Inkscape.
AxiDraws Inkscape plugin is able to successively draw layers. This would be nice to have it in the Makelangelo software.
As I am writing this I got the idea of trying the 4xiDraw Inkscape plugin with the makelangelo firmware.Older versions of the firmware support UNO. You then have to load an older version of the controlling software as well.
There seems to be Wemos D1 support but I haven’t figured out how this works.1. It would be nice to have an option to disable M226 in g-code generation.
2. It would be nice to have an option to adjust paper position (vertically and horizontally) directly. Instead of cheating by changing the polargraphs height.
3. When generating gcode in Makelangelo software the size settings for the polargraph do not show up (as a comment) in the g-code. For convenience it would nice to have a comment in g-code stating some stats like polargraph/pen settings.
4. Following number 3. is it possible to have the g-code generated relative to polargraph settings within the g-code? What I mean: At the beginning of the g-code, the width of the machine and the size of the paper is printed. The arduino calculates the movments based on these settings? This way it would be possible to change the outcome by just changing the settings at the beginning of the g-code. I think this is not trivial. Is this even reasonable? And how does Makelangelo reacts to SVGs created with inkscape when they are directly run off from the SD card?You’re right. I had a 500x700mm paper on it but removed it and I was too lazy to apply a new one. The tip of the pen scamper across the ply surface but I just wanted to test the movement.
Another issue. Might become off-topic.
The board I am using is 1 inch tick and very heavy (around 20kg). The motors are directly screwed to the board running with DRV8825 in 32th MS. The board acts as a giant resonator. It is pretty loud. I thought about something to reduce noise. I guess there are these options:
1. Screw the motors to a 10x100mm board and attach this board on top of the drawing board. Then I need to think about how to fix the motor-board to the drawing board so that I can easily use it on any board that I come across. But I am lazy. Soooo next option:
2. Build some silicone dampers from 3d printed molds. Let a machine do the hard work. Good one.
3. Buy a lightweight drawing board. Even more suitable for lazy persons :)…
4. Does reducing micro steps reduce the resulting resonator noise? I know that stepper drivers have a great impact on motor noise. Probably TMC drivers are the most quiet. But I think the attached board has a greater influence on noise. This would be the most cost efficient method + less time consuming. Did I say that I am lazy 😉I need to test this.
As the Makelangelo uses thinner and leightweight plywood I guess getting a “better” board should be the first step.
oh I simply remembered it wrong 🙂
The gondola is too light. I haven’t attached a weight. It was just a short test.
I know what you mean.
Hey Dan, sure you can use the picture. I could make more if you guide me on what you want to see in them. I have no clue on kinematics math and the polargraph mechanism is more like voodoo to me. Though my trigonometry sensor where tingeling. The polargraph by euphy doesn’t have such corner guides. And from user posted pictures of really large polargraphs that do technical drawings like “the one” with the motorcycle drawing which looks really precise, I am not sure how much this corner adds to the belt length calculation.
TL;DR looking at large scale polargraphed technical drawings on the internet from various different polargraphs, I guess the corner-thing doesn’t really matter.
Measured 210mm instead of 217mm (don’t know why I withhold the 7mm) from center of the motor shafts down on both Y axes. At this height, center of the board/center of the two motor shafts is home position. Now a horizontal line is straight from what I can tell by approximating.
But another question arose from this. The Makelangelo 5 leads the GT2 belt (with the end towards the pen holder) past one of the mountings for the stepper motor. So the angle of the belt is offset by this mounting (the white long thing in which the screw mounts the stepper motor to the board). Do I need to take account for this when I don’t guide the belt this way? Or am I think to much about this?
Picture link maybe working?
Sorry for spamming the forum with calibration and home positions questions but is this post here still relevant or obsolete?
Especially this answer from Dan “– on the Makelangelo 3 and 5 draw a line between the center of both motors. From the middle of that line, go down 217mm (8.54330709 inches). That is the spot where the pen should start.”
Does this still apply? Wait I’ll just try it and report back.
But I just realize that it took me quite some time to figure this home mechanism out. This leads me thinking that there should be a definite guide on home position and calibration. There are a lot of good informations on the forum but they are scattered around. Having them all in a single, easily reachable place would make the life of many people easier.Hi,
sorry for digging this post up but I have looked everywhere and can’t find a solution.
I have seen the Makelangelo 3.2 setup video but I could not really use it.
I have a custom polargraph running Makelangelo firmware and software.
It’s best to show pictures:
The drawing is from a previous polargraph experiment some years ago. Please ignore.My prints come out bowed. I have read How to fix 9 common problems which is a good rough guide. But it doesn’t help me set the home position right.
I have printed out the calibration pdf (on DIN A4) from the github repository but the horizontal 240mm line is only 210mm. The vertical lines are right.Now the problem:
The pdf is supposed to be pinned top center of the (in my case a wooden 616x1160mm board) board.
The motor mounts position (which I find really cool with the spring) obviously differ the original Makelangelo. Hence I need to offset the printed pdf relative to what?
It would be a QoL feature to have a more transparent/comprehensible forumla to attach the calibration pdf.
I.e. If I would know the reference point for the calibration pdf, using a custom motor mount would be much much more convenient.What I can do right now is to emperically set the home position (“Set home”) at different horizontal offset and draw a horizontal line. Rinse and repeat until I am able to draw a straight line. SOMEWHERE on this site/forum I have seen a picture of a Makelangelo where all machine widht/heights/pw width/pw height were overlayed but I am unable to find it again.
EDIT
I just found this post. Which explains just what asked. I guess I haven’t look that good.. 🙂You need endstops. Makelangelo 5 introduced endstops. If you don’t have any just don’t push this button. Under no circumstances. DO.NOT.PUSH.THE.BUTTON.
He wants to replace the servo motor with a stepper motor. You can get smoother movement with a stepper than a servo. No jitter those cheap SG90 produce.
Even if his English is not Oxford English I bet you understood what he wanted to say.Replace servo (which moves the pen(cil) up and down) with stepper motor.
Stepper motor = low jitter
Servo motor high jitter/ high jerk.
