Dan
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That’s the wierd-ass setup for the wall at the Vancouver Hack Space. it was built as 4×3 separate 8×8 panels, each in a reverse-N pattern. so the first light is (0,0), the next is (0,1), and the ninth light is (1,7).
Make a donation and I’ll make it sane top priority. Help me help you. 🙂
So now we need to figure out what’s different between your machines and ours.
We downloaded the firmware and software from the website as a customer would.
We opened the firmware and made sure in configure.h that the following was set:#define MAKELANGELO_HARDWARE_VERSION 3 // If you have a makelangelo 3+
//#define MAKELANGELO_HARDWARE_VERSION 5 // If you have a makelangelo 5+(normally the // is on the first line)
Then we uploaded that firmware.
In the makelangelo-software,
we connected to the robot
we check that left in moved towards the left motor
we check that left in moved towards the right motor
we centered on the home position (~20cm from the top, i forget the exact measure) and clicked “set home”.
our board is 835 wide and 1220 tall. Our A2 paper was 190mm from the top of the board, so I lied to the machine and said the board was 974 tall (A2 height 594mm + 190*2) so that the paper would appear in the middle of the machine. I could have also moved the paper down to the center of 1220. I like fixing things in software when I can.
we ran a border test, which outlined our A2 paper minus our 10% paper margin.
we loaded thankyou.dxf with “optimize on load” selected. DXF loading will load all the lines in random order; optimize will sort them end-to-end to save a lot of wasted moves and drawing time.
we put in a black sharpie (wow, I don’t miss how annoying that is on the 3)
we hit start. drawing proceeded normally.
results:
@fishingincairns I’m sorry if I haven’t been on top of everything. There’s a lot going on and I’m doing my best to keep all the juggling balls in the air at once. I hope when I solve this it fixes things for everyone?
Update: we are currently running our tests and should have real news a bit later today.
@rsnrsnrsn Today you are my hero.
I don’t believe there’s anything physically wrong with the machine just yet, as we test all machines before shipping and you’ve shown all motors and servos have worked on command. I strongly believe there’s a software or configuration problem.
Of course I have a machine here of that model, so I’m going to re-run the code here, do a test drawing which I’ll post on instagram and link here, then get you exact settings from my machine after the test run.
it’s supposed to be 1.27, i wrote it wrong.
I don’t initially see anything wrong. Normally if it goes the wrong distance it’s
– wrong machine size (seems ok)
– wrong pulley size (1.27 is good for 20 teeth)
– inverted motors (try settings > jog motor, in should go towards motor, out should go away from motor)
– failure to flip the DIP switches under the drivers. all switches should be in the DOWN position. DO NOT remove the drivers with power plugged in, you can permanently damage the drivers.and after that the issue is something exotic. Does that help?
hmm… well, we don’t support those stepper motors (idk of anyone who’s tried them yet) and fishing line was thrown out a long long time ago. the java code is ok but I’v enever heard of “please change to 0 and click ok”, the zero should be a name of a color. You installed the Arduino code on your board, too? For all I know you’re using a funny motor shield. I’m quite tired this evening, I hope I’m not being difficult.
There’s a log at the bottom of the app and below that a blank line to send advanced commands directly to the robot. Type D2 in that box and click “send” or hit enter.
Y-100 should move 10cm down, ~4″.
What happens when you send the message D2, what does it say? for a 20-tooth pulley it should say 12.7323954
Do you see the spot where it says “stand alone” and “usb power”, and there’s a jumper connecting two of the three pins? Make sure it’s on the middle pin AND the pin closer to “stand alone”. a pair of tweezers will jently pull it off and get it back on. if you have long nails and tiny fingers you can do it by hand.
you’re having trouble uploading the sketch to the machine.
check that the jumper is set to “stand alone” and that you have a 12v2a power supply connected. There’s a slight chance that low power USB connection isn’t enough when the motors are connected. Or you have a bad board. We test all our boards on arrival to make sure this never happens.
please:
– java and arduino files for what?
– what is the entire error message?
> .zip
Here’s your issue. Arduino is only opening the main file instead of all the files in the folder in the zip. Unzip them somewhere and double click the main file. Arduino will have tabs, including configure.h, and it will then be able to find and compile all the parts.
After that you’ll want to run D11, calibrate your belt lengths for auto-homing, and adjust your pen lifter angles. Then you should be ready to start drawing.
By buying from us you not only support our work building sweet sweet robots, you would have avoided all these issues.
Try this tool: https://github.com/MarginallyClever/PolargraphDifference/
This is great, I love that people are talking in the forums. I don’t know how to get more traction here and it makes me feel fantastic.
You guys seem like real DIYers, so let me ask: how would you feel if MC, instead of releasing finished robots and letting you reverse-engineer everything, instead published all our work as it happens and gave Patreon supporters access to the pre-release design files? Maybe even a say in which robot was improved next? That way you could DIY along with me. I’d just build one of something awesome, release the plans to patreon users, and offer the finished robot to those people who just want a machine (non-DIYers)
You are correct about pressing “set home” when at the home position.
From the home position when you Y-100, how far does it actually travel?
check the number of teeth on your pulley. we assume 20 teeth per pulley.
Why did you put the suction cups there? I wonder what that does for vibration.
8 1/2 x 11″ US letter size paper is the size used in the PDF. as long as your calibration printout is 1:1 with the original PDF it will be accurate. This video details the steps, and is linked from the page where you purchased the M3.2. It was just a link, which I have now upgraded to a an embedded video. Thanks for pointing out it could be better!
Does that help?
GT2 belt is a pitch of 2mm per tooth. You have 16 teeth. 16*2 is your circumference. 16*2/pi=10.1859164 is your diameter. We use 20 tooth pulleys, or 40/pi diameter.
Please tell me more. What os, what machine, what version of the software, and what steps do I follow to reproduce your results?
