Dan
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First, please try latest version (7.16.1).
Second, try running it as administrator. right click on the bat file and select “run as administrator”. it might be that your non-admin status prevents the settings from being written.
If both of these fail then the problem is something deeper.
On windows machines the setting is stored in the registry keys. Reinstalling the app would load the old keys, changing nothing.
You could force a reset of all settings for the app. Makelangelo > Preferences > Reset (top menu of app, first drop down option, then third button)
Right now! 🙂
So here’s the challenge…
If I say “start at exactly this line” AND there is no pen down command THEN the pen will go there and wave around in the air until a pen down command is found in the gcode.
Which could create a gap in your picture (missing lines)If I say “start from the last pen down before this” AND your whole drawing has no pen down THEN it will start at the beginning of the drawing.
If I say “add a pen down command here” it might not be what you want! Maybe the first line you asked for exactly is actually not a “draw line” command.
Um…. is your drawing a single line? The code looks for the last pen down command before the line number in question. so if you say “start at 200000” it looks in the file at 200k, then backs up until it finds a pen down command, then goes from there. What I can do is add an option to say “exactly from here” or “last pen down command before this”.
that’s…. very weird. i’m looking into it now.
Please do. probably post to imgur and link here.
I have a mega and a RAMPS 1.4 board… but which reprap display, specifically, are you using? url please? I want to confirm it’s the same one we use. IF it is the same then I have it here and I can test it out.
eactly backwards? your motors are wired wrong. if jog in goes away from motor then
* disconnect power
* unconnect motor plug from RUMBA
* reconnect with plug flipped over (wire colors reversed).if you fix both of these and left in makes the right motor move, then you have to
* disconnect power
* unconnect both motors
* reconnect left motor into the socket where right motor used to be and vice versa. do NOT flip over plugs.#define DEGREES_PER_STEP ( 0.9) // is a 400 step motor
#define DEGREES_PER_STEP ( 1.8) // is a 200 step motory-100 moves up? that’s backwards. one or more of your motors is plugged in incorrectly.
* connect robot
* open settings
* jog left motor “in”. pen should move up and left.
* jog left motor “out” pen should move down and right.
* jog right motor “in”. pen should move up and right.
* jog right motor “out” pen should move down and left.This will tell you which motor is wrong. Do not unplug motors while power is on! It can damage the electronics.
* home robot
* use manual drivingdoes Y-100 go down 10cm?
does X+100 go right 10cm?Did you adjust motor steps in your firmware to 200 (for your 1.8 degree steppers)? Did you adjust for microstepping?
reversing power through the circuit will probably cook the servo. that’s not a workable solution.
* Connect to the robot
* go to settings > pen
* test up and down angle
* probably swap values
* test until up and down angle are satisfactory
* regenerate thankyou gcode
* run drawing againHeck yes! Your motors have to move twice as far in the same time. You might get away with A2500 F4500.
to accelerate faster than top speed would mean you go from zero to top speed almost instantly.
on both M3 and M5, the defaults are accel 5000 speed 9000.
At some point the pulses that move the motors are going to be faster than the motor shaft can achieve. then steps will be missed. The same is true for acceleration. The default numbers in the software are my best guess. If you find better numbers, please share with everyone.
G0 and G1 are the same. In the literature, G0 is a “rapid linear move” – travel at max speed. G1 is supposed to be a slower travel (such as when a tool is working). In the firmware I use the two for the same thing.
the firmware was later changed to make it faster and simpler. i can’t edit your laser etched wood.
the connection for the right hand motor is backwards. do not unplug it while the robot has power.
Well… I’m out of ideas. what messages do you see on D11? let’s confirm that part is working 100%.
robot does not home? what does it say when you send D8? should be L1011 R1011
yes, the M5 pen holder. even a small triangle is better than a straight line. holding from two points is better than one, and the further apart they get the more stable it becomes. (in general, with special exceptions, etc)
the triangles are positioned around the center of mass so that the pen holder hangs straight. they rotate around a line that is in the center of the pen holder, so that even when the arms move it doesn’t change the pen tip position. This is was a major change over the M3 where the belts met above the pen. I went through about 20 designs to fix the pendulum behaviour you are seeing. … and that’s why I applaud your can-do attitude. I’ve been working on the next pen holder model, maybe we can collaborate? I want to put in a chuck that can be changed out so the pen holder supports more sizes and styles of pens.
I run at the default settings.
plug in robot
open arduino software
arduino > tools > port > [set port]
open serial window (magnifying glass, top right)
set baud=57600, drop down=”new line”.
confirm message from robot says “hello world!” etc.
type D11 and hit enter. messages appear.
type G28. robot goes home.if pen does not stop exactly at home position,
D8 reports calibration. should look like D8 Lnnn Rnnn where nnn is a decimal close to 101.1
D7 Lnnn Rnnn changes left and right calibration. increase n to make pen home closer to that motor. use very changes of maybe 1.0 or 0.1 at a time.
after each D7, use G28 to home again and see change.
repeat until satisfied.
D9 to save changes.
